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Category Archives: Notes from


Water for the Skull: On River Tubing in Laos

On the Nam Song River, I had refused the shots of Lao-Lao, the backyard rice whiskey served free in the water, and taken only a solitary sip of beer. I didn’t want to be seen not drinking though, so I held onto the bottle longer than usual. … Read more »

On Exchange: Things Taken and Things Left Behind

Two guys on the flight from Sydney to Denpasar drink steadily for six hours from plastic cups. I am curled on the seats behind. Through the gap I can see the Australian flag flight pillows wrapped around each neck like a brace. ‘Hey. Hey, why don’t you … Read more »

The Philippines: Promoting Progressive Tourism?

The next emerging Asian superpower? A deserted island paradise? Or merely a breeding ground for the world’s greatest cover bands? After many years of living in China, and a continental drift south to Australia for the last three, I’d taken a decade of trips in this region … Read more »

Men with the souls of women: Indonesia’s transgender waria

Three lithe young women frolic around in short nightdresses. Smoking cigarettes, they’re slowly getting drunk from a bag of potent local wine. I’m in Kemang, a wealthy district of South Jakarta – home to flashy bars, beer-swilling expats and cashed up locals. But here in the backstreets, … Read more »

You Couldn’t Have Afforded the Party Anyway: Berlin and the European Championship

Summer evenings in Berlin are longlit, they stretch, the city brims. In the long dusk, the public spaces grow suddenly thick with long-shanked people, the shops spill their wares onto the street, apartment-dwellers drink beer on their building doorsteps. It’s an unfolding of kinds. Summer is a … Read more »

The haunted generations: History lessons in Spain

Each month, Kill Your Darlings publishes ‘Notes From’, a series designed to illuminate the lives and lifestyles of different people around the world. This month, Belinda Lopez visits Madrid during economic protests, where she encounters young Spaniards trying to find footholds in a time of great uncertainty. … Read more »

Notes from the Tasman Sea (Melbourne to Auckland)

The Russiappines – 1421 nautical miles to New Zealand I have entered New Zealand from both ends – up in the North Island at Auckland airport and down south in pre-earthquake Christchurch. Both flights took about three hours from Melbourne and would have been completely unmemorable except … Read more »

Notes from … Athens

  1.               In September this year, Nella Themelios and I curated an exhibition at ReMap3 for BUS Projects entitled Kerameikou 32. ReMap is a contemporary art festival that started in 2007 and runs alongside the Athens Biennale. The festival takes … Read more »

Notes from … Santiago

In the latest instalment of our ‘Notes from … ’ travel series, Samuel Rutter returns to Santiago, Chile. 1. Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport, Pudahuel, Santiago. 05:15 It’s cold. It’s darker than a wolf’s mouth, as they say in Chile, and I can’t even see the Andes … Read more »

Notes from … Delhi

In the latest instalment of our ‘Notes from … ’ travel series, Brass Monkey Books Publisher Kabita Dhara shares her experience of a return to a foreign city that feels like a homecoming. As soon as the plane touches down, my heart starts racing. For me, every … Read more »